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Dress tutorial

Dress-stripes
Here are the instructions for making your very own Beach Dress, as promised yesterday. It really is a dress for hot weather- mine is made from lightweight fabric, is knee-length and ties up at the nape of the neck. But I think you could also make it from a stretch jersey cotton or a fine wool fabric and wear it over warmer layers if you like. Ironically, today is the darkest and rainiest we've had this summer- so I'm sorry that some of the photos are rather dull. Hopefully you get the picture anyway.

Dress 1
You will need:

 

a length of lightweight fabric- cotton voile or lawn work especially well. I'm using some vintage silk-blend fabric sent to me by a kind reader (thanks, Jo!)
sewing thread to match
a spool of shirring elastic.
a length of narrow elastic
scissors, sewing machine, pins, etc.
1. Cutting out your dress:
Basically, you'll just be cutting 2 rectangles or squares of fabric, exactly the same dimensions, plus two long straps to make your sundress. 
First of all, determine how long you'd like your dress to be. I chose to make mine knee-length, so I measured from my chest to my knees, and wrote down that measurement (35"), then added another 2 inches to compensate for the hem and shirring lines. So my total length measurement = 37".
Next, work out how wide you'll need to cut the fabric. To do this, I measured around my bust circumference (35") and added another 2" for seam allowances so my final width measurement was 37". So to cut out my dress, I cut two squares of fabric, measuring 37 inches each. I suppose the wider you cut your dress pieces, the more 'full' the dress will be below the shirring lines, so a bit of lee-way is fine. To make the straps, cut two strips of your fabric, about 32" long and 1.5" wide.
2. Next, finish around the edges of each dress piece using zig-zag stitch or an overlocker (serger.) I left the selvedges as they were, and finished the fraying edges. 
Sew one of your side seams, and press the finished seam to one side.
Press a narrow channel along the top of the dress to fit your narrow piece of elastic, and sew this in place.
Dress 2
3. Now you need to do some shirring. This is the fun part! Take your spool of shirring elastic, and an empty bobbin spool. Begin winding the elastic onto the bobbin by hand, stretching it tightly as you do so. (It took me a while to learn this tip- all my previous shirring efforts were futile because I didn't realise it needed to be tightly wound!) Place the wound bobbin into your bobbin case and thread the machine as usual. I like to set my stitches to a fairly narrow setting for shirring, but you can experiment with what suits your machine and fabric. Start sewing about a machine-foot-width away from the top channel you made earlier, and sew in a straight line until you reach the end of the fabric piece. You should find that the shirred fabric gathers up in a most pleasing way as you go. Continue working in this way until you have sewn about 9 or 10 rows of shirring, evenly spaced apart from each other. (You could do more or less shirring, depending on your bust size.) It should start to look a little like this:
Dress 3
and this on the back of your work:
Dress 4
4. When you've finished shirring, measure around your chest where you want the sundress to sit and cut a piece of narrow elastic the same length. Thread it through the channel at the top of the dress and sew the ends together. (You might want to adjust this elastic so it's not too tight or loose around your chest.)
Dress 5 Dress 6
Now you can sew up your other side seam. Use smallish stitches to make sure the lines of shirring, and the top piece of elastic are really secured in the seam. Hem the dress. (I did this by pressing the bottom edge in just a tiny bit, then folding this inside again half an inch, pressing well, and finally stitching into place.)
Dress hem
5. Make your straps by pressing in the edges of your cut strips, folding them together, pressing again and sewing down close to the edge. to make a neatly finished strip. Sew the finished straps in place where you'd like them to be, inside the front of your dress. (I machine-stitched mine about 3" in from each side seam, and also secured them with hand-stitches right at the top of the dress.)
Dress 7 Dress 8
6. I wear my dress with the straps tied like a halter-neck but you could sew down the straps at the back of the dress too, if you prefer. Or even crossed over at the back. Now you should really wait for some warm weather, if you're in the Northern Hemisphere, otherwise, head straight to your nearest river, beach or picnic spot in your lovely new sun-dress.

 

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39 responses to “a dress for hot weather”

  1. Eyecatchers & Wind In The Willow Avatar

    So thoroughly (but simply) explained ~ I’m very tempted to give this “shirring” a go!!

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  2. Joanne Avatar
    Joanne

    Thank you so much Melissa! 🙂

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  3. allison Avatar

    you make it look so easy! thanks for the tutorial. i’d love to try this out when the weather warms up a bit.

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  4. Shin Ae Avatar
    Shin Ae

    Such a pretty dress, Melissa! Thank you for sharing the instructions. I have a question about the nature of the futility of your shirring: was it futile because the shirring effect did not result, or because your sewing machine choked on the thread, spewing it forth in large knots? I am sure it is obvious why I ask.

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  5. granny's closet Avatar
    granny’s closet

    I love that… you made it sounds do easy. Thanks for sharing!

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  6. Jenn Avatar

    Demystifying shirring! Thank you! (I totally want to make one with some Liberty Tana Lawn, but might practice with something cheaper first)

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  7. tinyhappy Avatar

    🙂 ha- smart thinking!

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  8. tinyhappy Avatar

    hmm, yes, i know of what you speak.
    in past disasters, my shirring was either just really loose and not at all stretchy enough, or it exploded into an angry volcano of threads and fabric.
    give it another go!

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  9. Anna Emilia Avatar

    Such a beautiful dress dear Melissa, I am sure to learn things from it.
    Here, the morning is ice blue, the sun did not rise yet and I try to warm my hands to start to paint.
    Hopefully you get the summer sun back soon!

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  10. Ulrika Avatar

    Very cute dress! Thanks for the instruction!

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  11. Karen Avatar
    Karen

    Excellent instructions and photos to match,look out Simplicity patterns.
    Hope you get some sun tomorrow.
    Cheers
    Karen

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  12. louana Avatar

    I love it! I’ve always wound the shirring elastic on with my sewing machine, just as I would fill a bobbin. Do you think you get a better result winding it on by hand? I’ll have to make one soon, hopefully there will be some more sunny beach days again.

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  13. Francesca Avatar

    This is great, thanks Melissa! I’ve got several wintry months ahead to learn the shirring technique.

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  14. Anna Allen Avatar

    thank you for this excellent tutorial! i’m going to try it when the weather isn’t so cold (it’s snowing here)!

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  15. samantha Avatar

    Thanks for the shirring tips. I’ve been wanting to make a skirt using it but have been scared. Maybe I will give it a try.

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  16. mamaunplugged Avatar

    Pretty! Thank you!!

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  17. betty Avatar
    betty

    thank you for sharing this – still very cold here but will make one for the summer time… (soon)

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  18. aupres de mon arbre Avatar

    It seems easy … but I’m not sure I could sew it so well !

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  19. Shin Ae Avatar
    Shin Ae

    Thank you! I’m excited we had the same problem because you have given me the fix (fingers crossed)!

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  20. guildmaker Avatar

    thankyou muchly, melissa. warm and wet here on the sunny (and wet) sunshine coast right now so this dress will really hit the spot.

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  21. Merja Avatar

    Lovely! Thank you so much! I think I will not only make one for myself but my two daughters also 🙂

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  22. heleen Avatar

    thanks for this Melissa! I might have misread other instructions, but so far I haven’t been able to figure out to wind the elastic tightly onto the bobbin. you’ve given me the confidence to finish my ‘all weekend sundress’ (from weekend sewing) and it looks pretty good!

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  23. Person hinter den Worten Avatar

    This sounds like something even I could manage to do. Such a cute dress, I want one! Thanks for the instructions. 🙂

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  24. heleen Avatar

    Hi Melissa, I’ve posted some photos of my dress here: http://rubyinthedustdolls.blogspot.com/2011/01/shirred.html
    Thanks so much, your tutorial helped it all come together 🙂

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  25. bora Avatar

    Oh, I LOVE it! I already see how pretty you look in it and how perfect it mus fell to wear it in summertime… thank you SO much fpr sharing your pattern here- even for free, that’s really generous!
    Bora from Switzerland who’s an always charmed reader of your beautyful beyond words blog…

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  26. Frances Avatar
    Frances

    Hi Melissa,
    I just tried to use your technique to gather the sides of some tops to turn them into maternity tops. My problem was that as soon as I put the bobbin into my machine, it spun around and lost all the tension in the elastic. Any ideas what I need to do differently?
    Thanks!

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  27. Shox R4 Avatar

    One of the most dangerous forms of human error is forgetting what one is trying to achieve.Our shox shoes store online tell you one Meaningful words, I hope you can like it.

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  28. generationSue Avatar

    Thank you so much for the tutorial! I used it to make a dress for my little girl. I blogged about it too!
    http://generationsue.blogspot.com/2011/05/new-summer-dress.html
    Happy almost Summer!

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  29. tinyhappy Avatar

    it looks lovely! well done and thanks for writing 🙂

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  30. generationSue Avatar

    Thank you so much for the tutorial! We are hoping the rain will finally go away for those days at the beach with a new dress. I blogged about it here http://generationsue.blogspot.com/2011/05/new-summer-dress-for-miss-e.html
    Happy Spring!

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  31. Twickenham cleaners Avatar

    Wow,this is really fantastic! What you’re doing is great, Melissa, you have some really nice ideas!Thank you for sharing them! 🙂

    Like

  32. Twickenham cleaners Avatar

    I’m absolutely agree!It’s great to make your clothes by yourself, because they will look exactly like you wanted to!The idea that Melissa presented is great, it’s a perfect prove that all we need is a little bit of imagination.:)

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  33. morgan Avatar
    morgan

    I really like this dress!! I have trouble with shirring tho….I’ve tried it several times and it never turns out stretchy or gathered 😦 I’ve ALWAYS been told to NOT wind the elastic thread tightly, completely opposite of what you said! So maybe I’ll try it your way! Do you have any other suggestions for shirring??
    Thanks!!

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  34. carla Avatar

    Done. I convinced. Im definitely making this.

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  35. Rachel Rita Avatar

    Oh, thank you for telling me how shirring is done. I so want to make this dress. I would also like to as you to join Pinterest so that I can Pin and share your info with my sisters. I know they would love to make this dress in a smaller size for their grand babies.

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  36. Zoe Avatar

    Awesome dress. I saw the photo on Pinterest and I was like I swear that looks like NZ in the background and sure enough it was haha.
    Can I ask where you buy fabric from? There is such little choice around the place!

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  37. tinyhappy Avatar

    ha- thats awesome. i get my fabric from lots of different places- some online, some from local shops (i live in wellington so we have global fabrics and fabric warehouse as well as some specialty craft shops like stitchbird.) oh and of course second-hand- opshops and by cutting up curtains, etc.

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  38. Propertypistol Avatar

    Wow It was a great idea Melissa, I’ll try this for sure. Have a beautiful day.

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  39. Brigade Bricklane Avatar

    Wow It was a great idea Melissa, I’ll try this for sure. Have a beautiful day.

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