tiny happy

making journal

Appl 1
Good morning! I've had a few requests lately for tips on applique work. I love using applique in my projects, but I really only use one technique these days. When I showed it to my mother once (she's an accomplished needlewoman who employs many different applique techniques in her quilts and embroideries) she was less than impressed, but I've stuck with my method because it produces the effect that I'm after with applique. And that is an application of fabric that is smooth and soft, with no 'crispy' edges or awkward corners. Because I usually applique onto things for children, I've found that my favourite method washes well with no disintegration of the fabric layers, and it's softer and more comfortable to wear.

I know there are many different products on the market for helping with applique- such as fusible webbing. I've never remembered to look for them in my local craft shop, although I'm sure they are great products if you're after a quick applique job. But in my opinion you don't need these, but rather, just a good old needle and thread. This method works best when you use a light-weight, tight-weave fabric for the appliqued motif.

Here's how to do it.

You will need:

A fine, sharp sewing needle and fine thread (poly-cotton blend is good.)

Something on which to applique- a tshirt, dress or cardigan for example, plus some fine, but tight-weave cotton fabric to use for the applique. 

Paper and pencil, sharp scissors and dressmaking pins.

First of all decide what shape you'd like to applique, and draw it on the paper. Use this pattern to cut the shape from your fine fabric. (I'm using a plain old circle here for ease of explanation.) Iron this shape well (you might want to carefully iron the surface of your tshirt/etc too.)

Using some little sharp scissors, cut small incisions all around the edge of your shape, as shown below. (My cuts measure about 3mms.)

Appl 3
Centre your motif onto the garment, and pin all around the shape.

Thread your needle and tie a knot on the end. Now you can start your applique. Fold a bit of your motif under at one point of the edge and press together with your fingers. Hold this edge in place against the garment with your left hand while you insert the tip of your needle into the garment, and up again through the folded edge just a few millimetres away. Hmm, it's a bit tricky to explain, but you should get the idea from the photo below. Basically, you're just folding the shape under along the edge with your left hand while securing the edge with your little stitches. (If you're right-handed that is.) You can pull them in place securely but be careful not to pull too tightly. You want a smooth worked surface, not a puckered one.

Appl 4

Carry on like this all the way around the shape. Remove the dressmaking pins as you go. When you're finished your applique, tie a knot close to the edge of the work and thread it under the motif to hide it.

Appl 5

I know those stitches look rather small and tiresome, but it really doesn't take too long. Before you know it you'll be sewing all sort of shapes onto all sorts of things. Good luck!

Handsewing 1

Posted in

33 responses to “a spot of handsewing”

  1. Nancy Avatar

    This is exactly how I like to do it myself. I hope others try it this way too. I see the point of stabilizers but you are right they do often make it stiff.

    Like

  2. Carol Avatar
    Carol

    Thank you for a really helpful description. I do enjoy handsewing (or crocheting) on an evening, I really like to be “doing something”.

    Like

  3. Rach Avatar

    Completly agree with Carol! I love having stuff like this to do in the evenings – how could you just sit there & watch TV?

    Like

  4. Marina Avatar

    I always zig-zag mine on with the machine but the handsewing method sounds so much more restful and relaxing….

    Like

  5. Heather Woollove Avatar

    When making a circle, it helps to use the ‘aluminum foil’ trick. Cut a cardboard circle the size you want. Cut fabric approx 1/2-inch larger all around than the circle. Lay (1st) a piece of foil (quite a bit larger than the circle), then the fabric, then the cardboard on your ironing board (centering them). Fold up the foil and fabric around the cardboard center…smoothing the edges so that the shape remains ROUND. Iron through the foil (front and back) and let cool to touch. Remove the foil and pull out the cardboard, and voila…a perfect circle! XXO-

    Like

  6. angela Avatar

    Wow! perfect, Mine is always wonky!

    Like

  7. Kate Avatar

    light dawns and birds sing! of course, snipping round the edges – why didn’t I think of that? Thanks so much for another lovely tip. Off to rummage through the fabric pile…

    Like

  8. jo heron Avatar
    jo heron

    fantastic… many thanks for tutorial just what I needed to know. xx

    Like

  9. tara Avatar

    Thanks for the tutorial. I’ll have to give this a try.

    Like

  10. Margaret Oomen Avatar

    your handwork is always so beautiful

    Like

  11. Z. Avatar
    Z.

    Thanks for the tutorial!
    Can you tell me what fabric you used for the applique in the tutorial? It’s so lovely. I could see it as a dress, or a blouse.
    I tried making an embroidered brooch using your tutorial yesterday. Unfortunately, I’m a pretty bad embroiderer, so the brooch failed. Your work is always so delicate, I’m even more impressed now! Despite the failed brooch, embroidering was a nice way to spend (part of) an evening. I was very tired and this was exactly the thing I still had enough energy for.

    Like

  12. Jo Avatar

    I’m normally too lazy to hand sew applique like this (I have enough hand quilting to keep my evenings full!), but your version definitely looks a lot neater than my machined one. Maybe I’ll force myself to do it next time I’m doing a special garment 🙂

    Like

  13. Esther Avatar

    I really love your blog, it’s awesome! Your style, works, patterns – everything is beautifull 😉 I also decided that I’ll sew something myself and I’ll show it on my blog soon.
    If you want, see my blog: estherova.blogspot.com

    Like

  14. Melbourne Road Avatar

    hand appliqueing means more time with the family instead of in front of the machine…always a winner! :o)
    Lori

    Like

  15. Emily Avatar

    Gorgeous! Thanks for the tutorial – I want to try this now.

    Like

  16. gracia Avatar

    Beautiful and detailed. I love to work on such projects when I am quiet and focused. Lovely work, as always.

    Like

  17. tinyhappy Avatar

    thank you for that, heather! very useful.

    Like

  18. tinyhappy Avatar

    thanks z, the fabric is a cotton voile print from ‘spotlight’ which is a big shop found in australia, nz and singapore, i think. hope you can find some!

    Like

  19. Mousy Brown Avatar

    Thats what I always do – I thought that was the way to do it! It feels intuitive and works well so I think I’ll stick with it and not try and learn the proper way! Love that old shirt fabric – it looks great appliqued as a simple circle! 😀

    Like

  20. rachel @ tea with lucy Avatar

    your stitches are so small and perfect.
    i have a few of the little one’s tops that have suffered from stone fruit stains and need reviving. i had planned to machine stitch something but i think i’ll give this a go instead.

    Like

  21. sol Avatar
    sol

    Have you tried Freezer paper?
    I use this method, but I don’t bother using starch.
    http://www.patchworkposse.com/blog/2010/03/how-to-hand-appliquehttp:-tutorial/
    Sol

    Like

  22. Twickenham cleaners Avatar

    You really have a talent!These look absolutely amazing!Great ideas!

    Like

  23. vibram five finger shoes Avatar

    Is it the girl ginkos or the boy ginkos that are so stinky? Either way, it’s a thing I love about ginkos: one gender of trees smells super awful!

    Like

  24. enriqueta Avatar
    enriqueta

    I’ve seen your blog and it is excellent, I congratulate you for sharing what you know, a hug from the country of Peru

    Like

  25. Sylvie Avatar

    I’m having trouble seeing the detail large enough on my monitor. Did you use a whip stitch…or a running stitch…or…?
    Merci, Sylvie

    Like

  26. tinyhappy Avatar

    Hi Sylvie,
    Sorry that the detail is hard to discern. I guess it is quite like a whip stitch – but a small one, as invisible as possible on the appliqued (outside) edge. Happy sewing!

    Like

  27. Threads and Arts embroidery digitizing Avatar

    Sometimes Hand applique embroidery can be difficult and not have that swift finishing. Try doing it by machine through digitizing.

    Like

  28. Threads and Arts Applique embroidery digitizing Avatar

    Well through Applique Embroidery digitizing and embroidery machines this could be done on a commercial level.

    Like

  29. Brigade Utopia Avatar

    Thank you for sharing this information Melissa, and have a wonderful day.

    Like

  30. Brigade Bricklane Avatar

    Thank you for sharing this information, an have a great day.

    Like

  31. Brigade Valencia Avatar

    Thank you for sharing this with us an have a beautiful and joyful life.

    Like

  32. Brigade Orchards Avatar

    It was so great and beautiful and nice, I love this and I will make this for my grandson. Thank you sharing this with as and have a wonderful day.

    Like

Leave a reply to Marina Cancel reply